Iron Man MK3 Helmet

Quick Steps

1. Print the sizing ring and verify ear clearance.
2. Batch print panels and fit-critical parts.
3. Upload the Arduino sketch to a Nano Every.
4. Bench test servos, LEDs, and dimmer before install.
5. Dry-fit shell + faceplate and dial servo links.
6. Sand, prime, paint red/gold, then clear coat.
7. Glue seams, add hardware, padding, and straps.
8. Suit up and enjoy the arc-reactor vibes.

Sizing the Helmet

1. Print the sizing ring included with the model.
2. Test fit. Light resistance over ears = perfect.
3. Scale the shell up/down evenly and reprint if needed.
4. Do not scale precision parts: brain_base, brain_cap, dimmer_arm, dimmer_mount, ServoArm_active, ServoArm_passive.
5. Need battery clearance? Use the Dome_04-Resize insert.

Printed Parts List

Hardware & Electronics

Arduino Code

Upload this sketch with the ServoEasing library installed. Tune the open/closed constants to your servo geometry.

#include "ServoEasing.h"
ServoEasing servoTop;
ServoEasing servoBottom;

const int action_pin = 2; // trigger/proximity input (pullup)
const int ledPin = 6;     // eyes
const int potPin = A0;    // dimmer

int location = 31;
int bottom_closed = 107;
int top_closed = 167;
int bottom_open = 20;
int top_open = 20;
int value;
int maxBrightness;

void setup() {
    pinMode(action_pin, INPUT_PULLUP);
    pinMode(potPin, INPUT);
    servoTop.attach(9);
    servoBottom.attach(10);
    setSpeedForAllServos(190);
    servoTop.setEasingType(EASE_CUBIC_IN_OUT);
    servoBottom.setEasingType(EASE_CUBIC_IN_OUT);
    synchronizeAllServosStartAndWaitForAllServosToStop();
}

void loop() {
    value = analogRead(potPin);
    maxBrightness = map(value, 250, 750, 0, 255);
    int proximity = digitalRead(action_pin);
    if (proximity == LOW) {
        if (location > bottom_open) {
            servoTop.setEaseTo(top_open);
            servoBottom.setEaseTo(bottom_open);
            synchronizeAllServosStartAndWaitForAllServosToStop();
            location = bottom_open;
            delay(10);
            analogWrite(ledPin, 0);
        } else {
            servoTop.setEaseTo(top_closed);
            servoBottom.setEaseTo(bottom_closed);
            synchronizeAllServosStartAndWaitForAllServosToStop();
            location = bottom_closed;
            delay(50);
            analogWrite(ledPin, maxBrightness / 3);
            delay(100);
            analogWrite(ledPin, maxBrightness / 5);
            delay(100);
            analogWrite(ledPin, maxBrightness / 2);
            delay(100);
            analogWrite(ledPin, maxBrightness / 3);
            delay(100);
            analogWrite(ledPin, maxBrightness);
            delay(100);
        }
    }
}

Upload via Arduino IDE: select "Arduino Nano Every" as the board, install ServoEasing, and tweak servo endpoints until the faceplate seals cleanly.

Wiring Diagram & Notes

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• Servos: signals on D9/D10, power from battery or regulated 5V, shared ground with Arduino.
• LED driver: PWM control on D6 (use a MOSFET if your LEDs pull real current).
• Potentiometer: wiper to A0, outer legs to 5V/GND.
• Faceplate trigger: normally-open momentary switch from D2 to ground with INPUT_PULLUP.

Dry Assembly & Alignment

1. Mount servos to brackets and validate travel range on the bench.
2. Dry-fit face + dome with painter's tape; cycle servos to confirm clearance.
3. If you scaled the shell, mark and re-drill servo pivot holes to match.
4. Use self-tapping screws for temporary alignment, then commit to CA/Weld-On.

Finishing

1. Sand prints (120 to 220 to 400 grit) and apply filler primer between passes.
2. Lay down metallic red on the shell and gold on the faceplate; finish with clear coat.
3. Install padding, straps, and tuck wiring for a safe wearable fit.

Painting walkthrough: Smoothing & painting tips